Hidden Rome: Il Passetto del Biscione

Nestled discreetly a few meters away from Campo de’ Fiori lies a small street that connects Piazza del Biscione with Via di Grottapinta: Il Passetto del Biscione.

This seemingly unremarkable covered walkway has borne silent witness to over two millennia of Roman history, encapsulating the rise and fall of empires, the transformation of architectural marvels, and the unyielding spirit of cultural and religious devotion.

The origins of Il Passetto del Biscione are intricately tied to the Theater of Pompey, a grand structure built between 61 and 55 BC by Pompey the Great. Gnaeus Pompeius Magnus, known to history as Pompey the Great, was a military and political leader whose exploits in the Middle East elevated him to the status of a celebrated Roman consul. The theater he commissioned was not merely a venue for entertainment but a symbol of his power and influence.

Pompey cleverly circumvented contemporary Roman laws, which prohibited the construction of permanent theaters, by dedicating the structure to Venus Victrix. By placing a temple to Venus at the top of a grand semi-circular staircase, he effectively disguised the theater’s seating arrangement as a flight of steps leading up to the temple. This architectural sleight of hand allowed the theater to boast a diameter of 150 meters, with the capacity to seat up to 30,000 spectators, making it one of the largest and most impressive theaters of its time.

 

The Theater of Pompey is etched into the annals of history not only for its architectural grandeur but also as the site of one of history’s most infamous events: the assassination of Julius Caesar. On the Ides of March, 44 BC, Caesar, who had been both an ally and an adversary of Pompey, was murdered at the foot of Pompey’s statue by a group of conspirators. This dramatic event marked the end of the Roman Republic and the dawn of the Empire, a pivotal moment that forever changed the course of Western history.

As with many ancient Roman structures, the fall of the Empire saw the Theater of Pompey repurposed and transformed throughout the Middle Ages. The once-majestic theater became a quarry for building materials, and new edifices arose on its venerable foundations. Among these new constructions were the house of the Orsini family and two churches: Santa Barbara dei Librai and San Salvatore in Arco. The latter was eventually renamed Santa Maria in Grottapinta, reflecting its origins from one of the many corridors and rooms of the ancient theater, adorned with historic frescoes.

Santa Maria in Grottapinta was annexed to the palazzo built by the Orsini family on the precise location of the Temple of Venus. This connection allowed noble guests, including the notorious Lucrezia Borgia, to access the church directly from the palazzo. The church became home to a revered painting of the Madonna, “The Madonna of Divine Providence,” by the artist Scipione Pulzone from Gaeta.

The painting of the Madonna gained legendary status on July 9, 1796, when witnesses reported seeing the eyes of the Madonna move as if she had awoken. Her eyes were said to open and close, following the excited crowd that had gathered in anticipation of a miracle. This phenomenon, echoed by other sacred representations of the Virgin Mary across Rome, resulted in the partial closure of one of the Passetto’s entrances to honor the sacred image.

However, the church’s sacred status was marred by a violent incident, leading to its deconsecration. The original painting was moved to the church of San Carlo ai Catinari, and the Passetto itself fell into disrepair. Once a place of devotion, it became dark and dirty, a shadow of its former significance.

The story of Il Passetto del Biscione could have ended in obscurity, but for the efforts of Roberto Lucifero, director of the Orsini Chapel Study Center. In 2013, Lucifero sought permission to restore the Passetto, aiming to revive its historical and cultural importance. The restoration project, approved in 2014 by the head of Rome’s Artistic and Anthropological Heritage, was a meticulous labor of love, carried out by a dedicated team of six under Lucifero’s direction. Over the course of two years, the pathway was thoroughly cleaned, the plaster and frescoes were restored, and the painting of the Madonna was meticulously recreated by artist Raffaella Curti.

The restoration of Il Passetto del Biscione is not merely a physical renovation but a revival of its cultural and historical legacy. The pathway, once a dark and neglected passage, has been transformed into a symbol of Rome’s enduring spirit and devotion. The phrase “Go look for Mary throughout Rome” captures the essence of the devotees’ pilgrimage to this hidden passageway, a journey steeped in history and faith.

The name “Biscione,” meaning “big snake,” has intrigued historians and locals alike. Two theories prevail: one suggests the name derives from the sigil of the Orsini family, which featured an eel, while another posits that it originated from a Milanese Hosteria’s sign depicting a snake, the symbol of the Visconti family, rulers of Milan since 1277.

Today, thanks to the dedicated restoration efforts, Il Passetto del Biscione stands as a testament to Rome’s rich historical tapestry. It invites visitors to rediscover a place steeped in history, architectural ingenuity, and enduring cultural traditions. This hidden gem, once the site of great events and miracles, continues to captivate and inspire those who seek to uncover the layers of Rome’s illustrious past.